h o m e * e c o n o m i c s

(S H O P, C O O K, E A T; R E P E A T)

love life

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Our wedding ceremony was very short and very secular. We were in a walled garden, and we had a little acoustic guitar music and two readings. My sister insisted that a marriage could not commence without a reading of first Corinthians; when I said that I wished I could have a Quaker wedding, in which the bride and groom stand alone before the assembled to make their pact, and anyone who wishes to speak may do so, Becca said that if I did that, she would stand and read first Corinthians. But I had something else in mind.

One reading was a poem by Donald Hall called “Summer Kitchen.” I had found it through the Writer’s Almanac (the only email newsletter I never unsubscribe from, no matter how thorough my e-purge) and thought it captured everything beautiful about life and love. I later read an interview with Donald Hall in which he explained (and I hope I am not mangling his meaning too dreadfully here as I paraphrase from memory) that sound is the thing in poetry. That the “meaning” or story of the poem is quite secondary. I am happily mired in story and image, though; I don’t know if it’s too late for me to become attuned to the music of poetry, or if I have a better chance now that I’m older and better read.

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The other reading was Shakespeare’s Sonnet 116, which I was reminded of this morning when it appeared in my inbox via, yes, the Writer’s Almanac. Since it is public domain, I can type it up here:

Let me not to the marriage of true minds

Admit impediments. Love is not love

Which alters when it alteration finds,

Or bends with the remover to remove:

O no! it is an ever-fixed mark

That looks on tempests and is never shaken;

It is the star to every wandering bark,

Whose worth’s unknown, although his height be taken.

Love’s not Time’s fool, though rosy lips and cheeks

Within his bending sickle’s compass come;

Love alters not with his brief hours and weeks,

But bears it out even to the edge of doom.

If this be error and upon me prov’d,

I never writ, nor no man ever loved.

My boss, who attended the wedding (very sweet), mocked this choice (less sweet, but unsurprising) as entirely inappropriate for nuptials. Critical opinion on this matter seems to be divided, and I must admit that I did not put the poem through rigorous analysis myself before choosing it. For me it calls to mind a high school English teacher of mine who told us that he read this poem to his wife every year on their anniversary. That stuck with me.

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What struck me this morning is “It is the star to every wandering bark.” In the past year I’ve been thinking often about what Buddhism might mean for Western literary traditions, depicting and celebrating (and creating?) the persistent self as they do. A poem that straightforwardly insisted on the permanence of any state should seem misguided to a Buddhist. (Which I am not, I should make clear; my interest is strong but neither deep nor formal.) But I like an idea which Shakespeare definitely did not intend, and that is Love as “the star to every wandering bark”—not a specific love, but Love as an ideal and a daily practice that helps us constantly reorient ourselves.

The pictures above are some recent gifts of love not directly linked to Valentine’s Day. I knitted Bee a Zimmerman Tomten which she has no interest in wearing. Since its main purpose was to occupy my hands on the long flight to India last year (remember that?), and since it might fit into next year, that’s fine. This sweater was begun in 2010 and finished in 2012; but my favorite thing about it is that the yarn came from Houston (green), San Francisco (bright blue), and Cambridge (navy). I kept running out of yarn. Oh, and I had to order the zipper from Purl; although it was shipped from California, I am counting it as New York so that this sweater has it all. Although I am a faithful knitter of swatches, I somehow always end up in the wrong gauge and needing much more yarn than called for.

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The tray of shiny things is my estate sale plunder from last weekend. (My gift to myself, if that isn't obvious.) I also drove home with a dresser strapped to the top of the station wagon—a first time for everything! The hobnail glass pitcher is for a handwashing station for Bee. The candlesticks are because we had none. The silver tray has a spot of corrosive tarnish that may be unmendable, but at $2, who’s complaining? And the sweet little cup is inscribed “Margaret.” I was thinking of sending it to one of my two friends with babies named Margaret, but I may not be able to give it up. It reminds me, actually, of the wedding band I wanted. We bought our wedding bands online at the last minute from a dealer of new and vintage jewelry. I wanted a specific Civil-War-era silver band with etching similar to the cup’s, but it was a size too small. “No problem,” the proprietor said via email. But when I called to arrange the sale, the proprietor’s husband said, “No way. I’m the one who has to take these things to the jeweler to be resized, and he won’t be able to do it.” I ended up with another vintage band that suits my engagement ring much better, although Andrew says it looks like something out of a Cracker Jack box—flimsy. I prefer “delicate.”

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In early January I finally started another batch of Tartine starter, hoping to be able to bake bread for Andrew on Valentine’s Day. The starter grew mold, which never happened in San Francisco, a forest of tiny spores. The next batch grew flat little dark spots of mold. The next batch stayed clean and took, and yesterday I baked. It was wonderful to get my hands into a big mass of dough again, and now I have plans to try at least three recipes from the book with the almost four (!) pounds of bread I produced. I know I am pushing it here, but I really want to say that baking is another star to this wandering bark.

NOTES ON TARTINE BREAD, schedule altered to suit the preschool-centric schedule

Day 1: Made leaven in morning. By 8pm, it floated. At 11pm, I mixed up the dough with room temperature water and used half regular bread flour and half regular whole wheat flour (book recommends higher percentage of whole wheat flour—90%, I think). Also used 15 grams salt instead of 20. At midnight, I gave the dough four folds and then covered it up for the night, leaving it on the counter.

Day 2: At 7 a.m., started folding the dough about once every 30 minutes. The dough seemed perhaps too stiff, maybe the result of the overnight rise. At about 11 a.m., divided and shaped the loaves. By noon they were in their floured-cloth-lined bowls. Prepared to bake at 3 p.m. The dough seemed oddly wet; it wet the cloths, which I don’t recall happening before.

Results: These loaves were not as high as I would have liked, and their sides seemed more sloped than rounded. I think this is a nice balance of whole wheat and white flour but know everyone else would prefer pure white. The crumb is oddly moist (as all of my bread seems to be now?), and I don’t think it has the pearlescent sheen it ought to; it definitely doesn’t have ideal bubble structure. Actually, it reminds me a lot of no-knead bread, which would have been easier (but less fun!) to make.

14 February 2012 in bread, poems | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

Bread Alone

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In The Possessed, Elif Batuman recaps a sensible argument she once made against the methods of MFA workshops, which act "as if writing were a matter of overcoming bad habits--of omitting needless words." Although I've never sat around a workshop table, I've spent the last decade murdering my darlings so assiduously that I sometimes worry no one is left, darling or despised; dog paddling so desperately through my email that I've forgotten how to swim; stalking and eliminating needless words so zealously that I'm no longer sure any words are needful at all.

What, for instance, can I tell you about bread that you don't already know? I've made some good bread lately. I applied no-knead technique to another recipe familiar to me, which you'll find below, and it worked like a charm. And here's Oliver Strand in the Times, telling us how to do it for pizza. Bookmark, please.

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Nigel Slater's Really Good and Very Easy White Loaf, from Appetite, adapted to the (almost)  no-knead method

In a big bowl, whisk together 4 cups (17 ounces) flour (I like King Arthur bread flour), 2 teaspoons salt, and a generous 1/4 teaspoon instant/bread machine yeast. Stir in 1 1/2 cups water. If there are still patches of dry flour, stir in more water, a tablespoon at a time, until all the flour has been incorporated into the mass of dough. This could take 2-4 tablespoons or even more, but don't worry--you will see when it is right. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a dishtowel and leave to rise for 12 hours or so.

After this first rise, tip the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about a minute. Put it on a silicone baking mat, a piece of parchment paper, or a floured baking sheet and dust the top of the dough with flour. Cover with plastic wrap and dishtowel again and leave to rise for 1-2 hours, until it has supposedly doubled in size (I can never tell, can you?). Preheat the oven to 500F. You do not need a baking stone for this bread to turn out well.

After the second rise, slide the silicone baking mat or parchment paper right onto a baking sheet without removing the dough. Nigel says to tuck the dough, which will have spread quite a bit, back into a neat, high ball, being as gentle as possible. (I always resolve not to carry out this procedure, since I fear I am not gentle enough, and then I always end up doing it anyway, since I think perhaps it is meant to let some air out of the dough ball. I flour my fingers and try to tuck the edges of the dough underneath the whole, worrying all the while that I'm ruining the bread. It has not gotten ruined yet.) Use a pastry brush to brush any excess flour from the baking sheet, silpat, or parchment paper. Bake at 500 for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 425 and bake 25-30 minutes more. Allow to cool on a wire rack before cutting.

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The crust is less than perfect on the second day, which is no pity, as this bread makes most excellent toast. In fact, in the past when I have come across some especially tasty butter, I have made this bread in order to enjoy it as fully as possible, first on the warm bread and then on toast.

You can also use half bread flour and half white-whole-wheat flour. It will still be good and definitely not punishingly whole wheaty, but it is not quite as irresistible as the all-white, all-bread flour version.

Bread is good for your soul; even if it fails to sweep out every last angst-bunny, making and eating and sharing it can't help but make you feel contented and even a little proud.

28 May 2010 in bread | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)

Bread

Last week Not Martha posted about her experiences with Cook's Illustrated's "No-Knead Bread 2.0" (the recipe is buried in the comments for a different post). I can't wait to try this. I didn't make the famous bread myself until this summer, but I've made it many times since. The dough has looked different every time, and when it's especially wet and slippy, I worry that it won't work out. One time I realized after the 18 hour rest that I had absentmindedly added about 1/2 cup too much water, and I worried that it wouldn't work out. But it has always been delicious. I know you all know, but it's like magic.

When I was in grade school my mom and I would bake soft, delicious bread in a teddy bear shape, so I'm not sure why adult-me has been spooked by yeasted breads until now. Inspired again by Not Martha, who drew her inspiration from the Amateur Gourmet, last month I finally baked Nigel Slater's Really Good and Very Easy White Loaf from Appetite, a recipe I had eyed longingly for years. It's true--it's really good and very easy. I cut the recipe in half, which makes a loaf about the size of the one yielded by the no-knead recipe. Its crumb is denser and whiter than no-knead bread; I think it would be better for sandwiches, and I can tell you that it makes amazing toast. I made it again for my family after Thanksgiving, and they seemed gratifyingly impressed.

Newly cocky, last week I tried the focaccia recipe in The Art of Simple Food. It revealed that my baking skills are, alas, not terribly advanced. I probably didn't let the yeast-water-rye flour sponge get bubbly enough. Then the dough felt all wrong from the start, tough and rubbery. I should have added some water when the flour sucked the initial allotment right up, but I wasn't confident enough to fiddle with the recipe. Once baked the focaccia was not pillowy and tender; it was, like the dough, tough and a little dry. On the third or fourth bite I realized what it reminded me of: bad pizza crust. (To make matters worse, I had tried to roast kale in the oven as the focaccia cooled; Michael Pollan mentions doing so in The Omnivore's Dilemma, and I was intrigued. It sounded easy enough, but I ended up with a steaming mass of kale that was soggy in the center and charred at the edges.) Luckily we were hanging and trimming Christmas wreaths as all this was going on, so I couldn't waste too much time on disappointment.

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I haven't figured out how to take a good picture of my wreaths, but I did figure out what to do with my unappealing leftovers. The focaccia was more than edible over the next day or two when I toasted it and dipped it into minestrone soup. I chopped up the kale and cooked it with garlic and canned tomatoes, and we ate some of it on top of pasta. On the fourth day, with half the focaccia and about two cups of kale left, I was yearning to make pizza but didn't want to waste my leftovers. So I turned on the broiler. I sliced the focaccia in half through its thickness, ending up with very thin pieces, and heated the kale in the microwave. I put the halved focaccia on a baking sheet on the top rack right under the broiler for 2 minutes; then I removed the baking sheet, spread the kale over the bread, and put it back under the broiler for 2 minutes. I grated some Parmesan cheese, sprinkled it over the kale, and broiled 1 minute more. It wasn't pizza, but it was actually quite yummy and comforting.

09 December 2007 in bread | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

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